St Giles’ Cathedral Guide: History, Spire & Thistle Chapel

Standing as the historic heart of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, St Giles’ Cathedral is one of Scotland’s most significant religious and architectural landmarks. Often referred to as the High Kirk of Edinburgh, this magnificent structure has served as a focal point for the city’s spiritual life for over 900 years. Its famous crown spire is an unmistakable feature of the city skyline, symbolizing the cathedral’s enduring presence through centuries of political and religious upheaval.

For tourists and travel enthusiasts, St Giles’ Cathedral offers more than just a place of worship. it is a living chronicle of Scottish history. Situated halfway between Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyroodhouse, it acts as a gateway into the soul of the Scottish Reformation and the evolution of the Presbyterian Church. Whether you are drawn by the stunning medieval architecture, the intricate stained glass, or the solemn beauty of the Thistle Chapel, a visit to this cathedral is an essential experience for anyone exploring the Scottish capital.

History & Culture of St Giles’ Cathedral

The history of St Giles’ Cathedral is a dramatic narrative that reflects the turbulent past of Scotland itself. The earliest church on this site was likely a small wooden structure dating back to the 9th century, but the stone building we see today began to take shape in the 12th century. Dedicated to St Giles, the patron saint of lepers and the disabled, the church was originally a Catholic place of worship.

The most transformative period for the cathedral occurred during the 16th century. It became the epicenter of the Scottish Reformation, led by the fiery preacher John Knox, who served as the minister here. Under his influence, the cathedral was stripped of its ornate Catholic icons and altars, transitioning into a Presbyterian kirk. This shift fundamentally altered the cultural and religious fabric of the nation.

Throughout the Victorian era, significant restorations were undertaken to preserve the structure and restore some of its former grandeur, including the installation of the magnificent stained-glass windows that were previously banned. Culturally, St Giles’ Cathedral continues to hold a position of immense prestige. It is the place where the Scottish monarch traditionally receives the Honours of Scotland, and it remains a vibrant center for music, art, and community gatherings in modern-day Edinburgh.

What St Giles’ Cathedral Is Famous For

St Giles’ Cathedral is world-renowned for its unique crown steeple. Unlike traditional spires, the crown spire consists of eight flying buttresses that meet at a central point, mimicking the shape of a royal crown. This architectural feat, dating back to the late 15th century, signifies Edinburgh’s status as a royal burgh and the cathedral’s close ties to the Scottish monarchy.

The cathedral is also famous for being the home of the Thistle Chapel. This small but incredibly ornate chapel was built in 1911 for the Order of the Thistle, Scotland’s highest order of chivalry. The woodcarvings within the chapel are considered some of the finest in the world, featuring intricate details of angels playing bagpipes and various heraldic symbols.

Furthermore, St Giles’ Cathedral is recognized globally for its role in the life of John Knox. As the leader of the Reformation in Scotland, Knox’s influence is felt throughout the building, and a statue of him stands prominently in the nave. In recent history, the cathedral gained international attention as the place where the coffin of Queen Elizabeth II rested during her final journey through Scotland, allowing thousands of people to pay their respects in a setting of profound historical weight.

Things to Do in St Giles’ Cathedral

A visit to St Giles’ Cathedral offers a variety of engaging activities for travelers. One of the most rewarding things to do is to join a guided rooftop tour. These tours allow visitors to climb the narrow spiral staircases to the roof, providing an up-close look at the crown spire and offering breathtaking views over the Royal Mile and the surrounding Old Town.

For those who appreciate the arts, attending a lunchtime organ recital or a choral concert is a must. The cathedral’s acoustics are world-class, and hearing the Rieger organ—one of the finest in Europe—fill the vast space is a moving experience. These events are often free or based on a small donation, making them accessible to all visitors.

History enthusiasts should spend time exploring the various memorials and monuments located within the side aisles. From the plaque dedicated to Robert Louis Stevenson to the intricate memorials of Scottish soldiers, the cathedral serves as a national pantheon. Additionally, taking a moment for quiet reflection in the pews allows you to truly soak in the atmosphere of a building that has seen nearly a millennium of human history pass through its doors.

Places to Visit in St Giles’ Cathedral

The Thistle Chapel

This is arguably the most beautiful part of the cathedral. Designed by Sir Robert Lorimer, the chapel is a masterpiece of the Arts and Crafts movement. Every inch of the oak stalls and ceilings is covered in meticulous carvings. Look closely to find the famous “bagpipe-playing angel,” a whimsical touch in such a formal setting.

The Preston Aisle

The Preston Aisle is one of the oldest parts of the building, housing the tomb of the Regent Moray and featuring massive stone pillars that have stood for centuries. It offers a quieter, more atmospheric experience away from the main nave, showcasing the medieval masonry that forms the cathedral’s foundation.

The Stained Glass Windows

While the Reformation initially saw the removal of stained glass, the Victorian era brought a resurgence of this art form to St Giles’. The windows are not just religious displays but also commemorate historical figures and events. The Great West Window, in particular, is a stunning display of color and light that illuminates the entire nave on a sunny day.

The Statue of John Knox

Located in the nave, this bronze statue commemorates the man who changed the course of Scottish history. Standing near the pulpit where he once gave his powerful sermons, the statue serves as a reminder of the cathedral’s pivotal role in the religious revolution of the 16th century.

Travel Guide to St Giles’ Cathedral

Navigating a visit to St Giles’ Cathedral is quite easy due to its central location, but knowing a few logistical details will help you make the most of your time.

Best time to visit St Giles’ Cathedral

The cathedral is a year-round attraction, but the best time to visit is during the shoulder seasons of May, June, and September. During these months, the light is often beautiful for viewing the stained glass, and the crowds are more manageable than during the peak of the August festival season. To experience the building at its most peaceful, try to visit on a weekday morning or late in the afternoon. If you enjoy music, Sunday services offer a chance to hear the full choir, while lunchtime recitals occur throughout the week.

How to reach St Giles’ Cathedral

Located on the High Street section of the Royal Mile, the cathedral is impossible to miss. It is roughly halfway between the Castle and Holyrood. It is a five-to-ten-minute uphill walk from Edinburgh Waverley train station. If you are coming from the New Town, several buses stop at George IV Bridge, which is just a short walk away. The city’s trams also stop at Princes Street, which is about a fifteen-minute walk through the picturesque Princes Street Gardens and up the Mound.

Entry fees or ticket details

St Giles’ Cathedral is free to enter, as it remains an active place of worship. However, a small donation is encouraged to help with the significant costs of maintaining such an ancient building. If you wish to take professional-quality photographs inside, you may be asked to pay a small permit fee. Guided rooftop tours and entry to special exhibitions or the Thistle Chapel during busy periods may require a pre-booked ticket or a specific fee, so it is wise to check their website before arriving.

Local food, cuisine, or specialties

Since the cathedral is in the heart of the Old Town, you are steps away from some of Edinburgh’s best food. For a traditional experience, visit the nearby pubs for haggis, neeps, and tatties. If you prefer something lighter, the many cafes on the Royal Mile serve excellent Scottish shortbread and scones with clotted cream. For a more modern take on Scottish ingredients, the restaurants on George IV Bridge offer locally sourced salmon and venison.

Accommodation options

Luxury: The Witchery by the Castle offers a dark, romantic, and historic stay just up the road. Alternatively, the Balmoral Hotel on Princes Street provides five-star elegance with iconic views. Mid-range: The Radisson Collection Hotel on the Royal Mile offers stylish, modern rooms right in the center of the action. Budget: For a more affordable stay, the High Street Hostel or the Ibis Edinburgh Centre Royal Mile provide clean and convenient options for travelers on a budget.

Safety, accessibility, and responsible tourism tips

St Giles’ is an accessible building, with ramps available for wheelchair users and those with limited mobility. However, the rooftop tours involve steep, narrow stairs and are not suitable for everyone. As it is an active church, visitors are asked to be respectful of those praying and to avoid loud conversations. To be a responsible tourist, consider purchasing souvenirs from the cathedral shop, as the proceeds support the preservation of the building. Always check the service schedule to ensure the cathedral isn’t closed for a private event or ceremony.

Travel Tips for St Giles’ Cathedral

When planning your visit, keep in mind that the cathedral is often used for national events and royal ceremonies. It is always a good idea to check the official “What’s On” calendar on their website to ensure the building is open to the public on the day you plan to visit.

If you are a fan of architecture, bring a pair of binoculars. The detail on the high ceilings and the upper reaches of the crown spire is incredible, and you can see many carvings that are invisible to the naked eye from the floor level.

Take advantage of the free volunteer guides. These individuals are incredibly knowledgeable and can point out hidden details, like the small woodcarvings in the Thistle Chapel or the bullet holes from past sieges, which you might miss on a self-guided walk.

Finally, remember that the Royal Mile can be very windy and chilly, even in the summer. The stone interior of the cathedral stays quite cool, so even if it feels warm outside, having a light jacket or sweater will make your exploration much more comfortable.

Is there a charge to enter St Giles’ Cathedral? Entry to St Giles’ Cathedral is free of charge for all visitors, as it remains a working church. However, they do rely heavily on donations for upkeep, so a contribution of five pounds is suggested. Some specific tours may have a fee.

Can I attend a service at St Giles’ Cathedral? Yes, everyone is welcome to attend the daily and Sunday services. The Sunday morning service features the cathedral choir and is a beautiful way to experience the building’s acoustics. Check the website for specific service times and special religious events.

What is the Thistle Chapel? The Thistle Chapel is a small, highly decorated chapel within St Giles’ Cathedral. It was built in the early 20th century for the Most Ancient and Most Noble Order of the Thistle, which is Scotland’s highest order of chivalry and honor.

Where is John Knox buried? Surprisingly, the leader of the Scottish Reformation, John Knox, is buried in what is now a parking space (Space 23) behind the cathedral. A small yellow plaque in the pavement marks the spot where his remains are believed to lie today.

Are rooftop tours available at St Giles’ Cathedral? Rooftop tours are generally available on weekends and during specific seasons. These tours offer a unique perspective of the crown spire and the Royal Mile but require climbing 148 steps, so a reasonable level of physical fitness is required to participate.

Is photography allowed inside the cathedral? Photography for personal use is permitted inside St Giles’ Cathedral. However, they ask that you do not use flash and that you refrain from taking photos during services or in specific areas marked as private prayer spaces to maintain respect.

How long should I plan to spend at St Giles’? Most visitors find that 45 minutes to an hour is sufficient to see the main interior and the Thistle Chapel. If you plan to take a rooftop tour or attend a musical recital, you should allow at least two hours.

What is the significance of the crown spire? The crown spire is a 15th-century architectural feature that symbolizes the “royal” status of the church. It is one of the few surviving examples of this type of medieval design in Scotland and is a landmark of the Edinburgh skyline.

Is the cathedral accessible for wheelchairs? Yes, the main floor of St Giles’ Cathedral is fully accessible for wheelchair users. There is a ramped entrance on the west side of the building. However, the rooftop tours and some smaller crypt areas are unfortunately not accessible due to stairs.

What are the opening hours for St Giles’ Cathedral? The cathedral is typically open from 10:00 to 18:00 during the summer months and 10:00 to 16:00 during the winter. Since it is an active church, these hours can change due to special services, funerals, or national events.